Research Brief

Building a backyard ice skating rink is a DIY winter project that involves creating a water-containment structure using plywood or lumber boards, installing a specialized polyethylene liner, and flooding in stages to create skateable ice. The technique demonstrated in the This Old House video is a standard approach used across North America, with several manufacturers and community resources supporting the practice.

The core method requires: (1) leveling the ground or compensating for slope with tiered boards, (2) constructing a perimeter frame from outdoor-rated plywood (typically 3/4" CDX) or 2x12 lumber cut to 16-18 inches high, secured with wooden stakes and screws, (3) installing a one-piece rip-stop liner (typically 6 mil thick white polyethylene with reinforced weave), and (4) flooding the rink in 3-4 stages, allowing each layer to freeze before adding more water. The frozen ground holds the stakes in place once temperatures drop.

Liner specifications are critical: manufacturers like Iron Sleek, Cover-Tech, RinkMaster, and NiceRink produce specialized ice rink liners ranging from 5-23 mil thickness, with 6 mil being the industry standard for backyard rinks. These liners feature rip-stop construction (woven polyethylene fibers), UV stabilization, cold-crack resistance down to -70°F, and white coloring to reflect sunlight and maintain ice quality. Liners cost $0.12-0.30 per square foot and are sized larger than the rink dimensions (typically 5 feet extra on width and length) to allow for draping over boards. A 90x35 foot rink like the one in the video would require approximately a 100x45 foot liner costing $450-1,350.

Board construction offers multiple approaches: 3/4" plywood sheets (4'x8') ripped to 16-18" height are lightweight and flexible but require more bracing and edge protection; 2x12 lumber is heavier, more rigid, requires fewer brackets, and has rounded edges that prevent liner cuts; commercial plastic boards (like Iron Sleek Poly-Steel or NiceRink boards) are the most durable but expensive option. Plywood costs $40-60 per sheet, while 2x12 lumber runs $15-30 per 10-foot board. Stakes are placed every 4-8 feet around the perimeter, with 2x4 wooden stakes or metal brackets being most common.

Flooding technique is crucial for ice quality: optimal temperatures are -7°C to -15°C (19°F to 5°F); flooding should occur in thin layers (1/4 to 1/2 inch of water per flood) that freeze within 10-30 minutes; warm (not hot) water bonds better to existing ice; the hose must be constantly moved to prevent melting through the base layer; and 3-4 initial floods over consecutive cold nights build a 2-3 inch base suitable for skating. Maintenance requires clearing snow immediately after each snowfall and periodic resurfacing with thin water layers.

Complete DIY costs range from $200-1,800 for a basic 20x40 foot rink, including lumber ($200-400), liner ($150-400), brackets/stakes ($50-150), and fasteners ($20-50). Pre-fabricated kits from NiceRink (starting ~$600 for 20x40), Iron Sleek ($180-16,000 depending on size and components), or EZ Ice Rink ($1,000+) include brackets, liners, and instructions but typically exclude lumber. Professional installation runs $3,000-34,000+ for larger or refrigerated systems. Water costs vary by municipality but typically add $50-200 for initial fill and maintenance.

Key limitations not mentioned in the video: yards need less than 10-12 inches of slope; regions require at least 3 consecutive nights below freezing to establish ice; liners last 1-3 seasons depending on storage and care; grass underneath remains healthy if the rink is installed after dormancy and removed before spring; and local bylaws may restrict rink placement, size, or duration.